Sewing machine



Aug.. 8, 1939.

J. GouLDBouRN Er A1. 2,168,568

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1957 4 sheets-sheet 1 Aug- 8, 1939- J.GOULDBOURN Er Al. 2,168,5)68

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Aug 8, 1939; .1.GouLDBouRNEr AL 2,168,568

SEWING MACHINE Filed June 28, 1957 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Aug 8, 1939 J.GouLDBouRN Er A1.

.SEWING MACHINE Filed Jme 28, 1937 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented @M1939 z2,168,558

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE Joseph Gouldbourn and ThomasAubrey Kestell, Leicester, England, assignors to United Shoe MachineryCorporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey ApplicationJune 28, 1937, Serial No. 150,728 In Great Britain August 27, 1936 20Claims. (Cl. 112.-35)

This invention is concerned with improvements With the above objects inview a particular ilin 0r relating t0 Sewing machines, and isparticulustrative embodiment hereinafter described aclarly, but by nomeans exclusively, concerned cording to the present invention includes awith curved hook needle chain-stitch sewing mathread-deflectorconsisting of a finger which lies ChneS OI Sewing the uppers and WelllSOf bOOtS 01 somewhat close to that face of the work which shoes to lipsor ribs of insoles secured on the the needle first penetrates in itswork piercing bottoms of lasts within the uppers. movement and moves, atthe same time as the Examples of such machines are disclosed in needleis retiring from the work to draw a loop the United States LettersPatent to Eppler N0. of thread through the work and through a 1,108,560of August 25, 1914, and No. 1,003,175 thread loop passing through theneedle hole last ofS'eptember 12, 1911. made in the work, to urge bothlimbs of the loop Although machines of the nature indicated in of threadthen being drawn through the work the patents referred to have pro-vedin practice away from the plane of the needle in the direction to becapable of sewing uppers, welts` and insole of work feed towards theneedle hole last formed lips together satisfactorily, and are in fact inin the Work. The fact that the deflecting finger very general use at thepresent time, we have obengages the needle thread loop and bows itlaterserved that, under some circumstances at least, ally at the sametime as the needle is continuing the sewing together of the materialsmay not its rearward movement, allows the thread easily produce quitethe results desired around all parts to be deflected without causing itto reeve in a of the shoe. severe manner through the barb of the needle,

For example, when sewing around the toe porand without straining orbending the needle, tion of a shoe by a machine of the type disclosedadvantages which could hardly be expected where in Patent No. 1,108,560which makes use of a the delecting finger only caused the thread to workfeeding member or feed point which digs bow after the needle has come torest while in its into the work and then moves laterally to effectrearmost position and while therefore the thread the feeding of thework, the manner in which the extending between it and the work isstationary operator controls the shoe to cause the sewing and is heldrelatively taut by the take-up device. operation to proceed around thetoe portion and The thread-deflecting finger holds the thread thenon-positive manner in which the feeding loop in its deflected positionsubstantially until member acts on the work tend to produce the retheneedle has once more commenced to pierce sult that the stitch-es are notdrawn so tightly the work, after the work has been fed forward againstthe work around the toe portion as at a stitch length, for the formationof the next other parts of the shoe, this tendency being parstitch, itactually bowing the loop still more as ticularly marked on shoes whichhave sharply the needle advances towards the work, and then pointedtoes.

Also the manner in which tension is applied to the thread to cause thestitches to be drawn tightly against the work sometimes causes thethread to cut into the insole lip along the sides of the shoe or tostrain it out of its correct upstanding position, towards th-e edge ofthe insole. This tendency is particularly noticeable on shoes theinsoles of which have relatively soft or weak lips thereon.

Among the several objects of the present invention are to improveso-called welt-sewing machines of the kind referred to, by the provisiono f novel and convenient means which will assist in ensuring that thestitches will be set with substantially uniform` tightness against thework at all parts around a shoe and by the provision of no-vel andconvenient means which will assist in reducing any tendency for thesetting of the stitches to mutilate the insole lip or to deflect it outof its correct position.

of the needle plane, to its original position in readiness to engage anddeflect the loop of needle thread next to be drawn through the work bythe needle. When therefore a stitch setting tension is exerted on thethread loop passing around the needle by the take-up device when theneedle has again penetrated into the work, the tension on the thread is;transmitted along the latter to the place where the thread loop passingloop in that position between the two needle holes last formed in thework to which it was deflected by the deflecting finger. The consequenttension on the thread therefore causes the needle loop both to pull thelooped end of the previous loop along the surface of the work towardsthe needle hole last formed and to move through this loop along thesurface of the work as it does so. The fact that the tension on thethread, in the setting of the stitch, causes the interretires, out ofengagement with the loop laterally .i

around the needle passes through the previous 4 engaging looped portionsto move along the surface of the work towards the last needle holeresults in those portions of the two interengaging loops which areactually passing through the needle holes being urged somewhat towardseach other and thus effecting the tightening and setting of the stitchesby compression of the insole lip in a direction extending lengthwisethereof rather than by an outward pressure such,

as would be obtained by straining the thread lying against the innerface of the lip against the latter. With such an arrangement there is,therefore little tendency for the insole lip to be strained outwardly orbent towards the edge of the sole. The fact that the interengaginglooper portions lie on the surface of the Work between two needle holesmakes it easier for the thread passing between the needle holes to betightened and set by a tension exerted on the thread and thereforereduces the pull which it is necessary to apply to the thread by thetake-up to set the stitches against the work.

Another feature of the invention is to provide a welt sewing machinewith thread handling instrumentalities well suited for operation at ahigher speed than has hitherto been usual.

Further features of the invention consist of certain constructions,arrangements, and combinations of parts, the advantages of which will beobvious to one skilled in the art from the following detaileddescription.

In the accompanying drawings illustrating the preferred form of theinvention Figure 1 is a right hand side elevation of a machine embodyingthe invention; Figure 2 is a chart indicating the relative times in themachine cycle when the movements of some of the parts of the illustratedembodiment commence and end; Figure 3 is a right hand side elevation ofa part of a thread deecting mechanism and a Welt pressing member of thesaid machine; Figure 4 is a detail view of the same parts as shown inFigure 3, when viewed in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure3; Figure 5 is a sectional view on the line 5--5 of Figure 4; Figure 6is a View in right hand side elevation, and partly in section, of thelooper mechanism of the machine; Figure 7 is a view in right hand sideelevation of the thread finger mechanism of the machine; Figure S is afront elevation of part of said thread finger mechanism; Figure 9 is aplan View illustrating the general relation of the needle, threaddeilector, looper, thread linger, welt guide and channel guide of themachine at one particular stage in a machine cycle; Figures 10 to 14inclusive are sectional plan views illustrating particularly therelations of the thread deflector and needle at different operatingpositions; and Figure 15 is a detail plan View on an enlarged scaleshowing a portion of the thread deiiector supporting sleeve.

The illustrated machine includes a curved hooked needle I which movesforwardly in passing through the welt, upper and insole lip and a feedpoint or awl 2 which is moved rearwardly to dig into the insole in theinner channel formed therein and is then moved towards the left to feedthe shoe. The needle I and feed point 2 and their operating mechanismsare substantially the same, except as hereinafter described, as thosedisclosed in the patents above referred to. The machine also includes achannel guide 3, a thread finger 5, a looper "I, and welt guide 9similar to and operating towards and from the work in the same manner asdisclosed in Patent No. 1,108,560.

In the embodiment of the invention a thread loop deflector I| isactuated during the loop drawing or retracting stroke of the needle toengage the right hand sides of the lengths of thread extending throughthe work between the needle and the work so as to deflect the thread inthe direction of work feed. The deflector has formed on it a stem I5from which the deflector extends upwardly and rearwardly at an angle ofabout 45 degrees to the horizontal. During each sewing cycle of themachine the deflector is moved on parallel linkage in the line of feedto 'deflect the needle loop, and is rocked slightly towards and awayfrom the seam and axially of the stem I5 to engage and disengage thethreads at the proper time. The result of these movements of thedeflector is a motion in a rectangular path in the forward portion ofwhich the deector engages the thread, and in the rearward portion ofwhich the deflector is disengaged from the thread, the disengagementoccurring after the needle has substantially reached the work in itsadvancing stroke.

To permit the defiector to move in the manner outlined, the stem I5 issecured in a tube or sleeve Il (see Figure 4), by a screw I9, which tubeis slidingly mounted, for movement axially thereof, in a guiding member2| which has an arm 23 extending towards the left from it. 'I'he sleeve|'I has formed on it a flat face 25 which engages a flat face Z'I on theguiding member 2| to prevent the sleeve from rotary movement in themember. The arm 23 has pivotally connected to it at 29, just at the leftof the stem I5, the forward ends of a pair of parallel links 3|, 3|,forming the linkage on which the deflector is mounted. The links 3|, 3|extend into a recess formed in an arm 33 of a cam lever 35 and at theirrear ends are pivoted in the recess at 3'I to the arm of the cam lever.The recess affords support to the links 3|, 3| and guiding member 2| byreason of its upper and lower Walls engaging the outer faces of thelinks, and by reason of an arm 39 on the member 2| which extends betweenthe links.

For actuating the deflector in proper timed relation to the other stitchforming devices, the arm 23 on the stem guiding member 2| is pivoted atits left hand end at 4| to the forward end of an arm 43 of a bell-cranklever 45 which from its forward end extends rearwardly and upwardly andis pivoted on a stud 49 secured in a second arm 5| extending forwardlyand downwardly from the hub of the cam lever 35, the arm 5| of the camlever 35 lying a little to the left of the arm 33 on the cam lever. Thecam lever 35 is pivoted on a horizontal shaft 53 extending laterally ofthe machine and secured in the machine frame and has a rearwardly andupwardly extending arm 55 which at its upper end carries a cam roll 5'!which engages in a cam groove 58 formed in the left-hand side face of acam 59 on the cam shaft 6| of the machine. As the cam shaft 6| rotates,the cam imparts a slight up and down movement to the deflector theguiding member 2| and the parallel linkage moving bodily about the axisof the shaft 53 on which the cam lever 35 is pivoted.

The arm 63 of the bell-crank lever 45 extends from the hub of the leverrearwardly and upwardly and has pivotally connected to its upper end theright hand end of a link 65 which extends towards the left and at itsleft hand end is pivoted on a ball-ended stud adjustably secured in acurved slot 61 formed in the forward end of one arm 69 of cam lever 1|pivoted between its ends on an upwardly and forwardly extending shaft 13secured in the machine frame. Another arm 15 of the bell-'crank lever 1|extends upwardly and rearwardly and carries a cam roll 11 which enters acam groove formed in the peripheral face of a cam 19 on the cam shaft 6Iof the machine.

To move the deilector up and down in the guiding member the tube I1 hasextending from it towards the right a horizontal pin 8| which passesthrough a slot 83 formed in a welt guide carrier 85. The carrier 85 ispivoted to the machine and is rocked, in a path extending rearwardly andupwardly, during each cycle of the machine so as to carry the welt guide9 towards and from the work, the guiding member being moved by theengagement of the pin 8| on the said tube |1 in the slot 83 in the weltguide carrier. Ihe slot in the welt guide carrier 85 is substantiallyconcentric to the axis of the shaft 53 on which the cam lever 35 ispivoted when the welt guide is in its forward position so that when thedeflector is moved up and down about the axis on which its cam lever 35swings, the deflector Il is not moved up and down in the guidlng member2|.

The thread finger 5 which cooperates with the looper hereinafter morefully described in laying the thread in the needle barb and which,therefore, may be assumed to be similar in purpose to that referred toas l1 in Patent No. 1,108,560 is moved during its thread pulling andgiving up movements to and fro laterally of the machine instead ofrearwardly and forwardly, as is usual in sewing machines with which theinvention is particularly concerned, and also dips into the channel ofthe insole. The thread finger (see Figs. '7 and 8) has a lower forkedend 81 for engaging the thread which, when the thread is being laid inthe needle barb or hook, moves from left to right of the machine andslightly rearwardly (i. e. more or less in the direction of work feed)behind the forward end of the needle then projecting forwardly throughthe work. From its lower forked end 81 the thread finger extendsupwardly and forwardly and then slightly downwardly towards the right.From the upper end of the thread finger there extends a stem 89. Thestem 89 is inclined upwardly and forwardly at an angle of about thirtydegrees to the horizontal when the machine is viewed from the side (Fig.'1) and is inclined upwardly and to the right at an angle of aboutsixty-five degrees to the horizontal when the machine is viewed from thefront (Fig. 8). The stem 89 of the thread finger passes upwardly througha bearing 9| secured on the machine frame. The upper end of the stem 9|has secured on it a short arm 93 which extends rearwardly from the stemand is 4pivotally connected at one end to the left hand end of a link95. The link 95 extends from its left hand end towards the right and itsright hand end is pivotally connected to the lower end of one arm 91 ofa cam lever by a stud 99 secured in a slot in the arm 91. The arm 91 ofthe cam lever extends upwardly from its lower end and the hub of the camlever is secured on a shaft |03 which is parallel to the stem 89 of thethread nger and which is rotatably mounted in bearings on a bracketsecured on the machine frame. Another arm |01 of the cam lever extendsupwardly and has rotatably mounted on its upper end a cam roll |09 whichenters a cam groove in the peripheral face of a cam secured on the camshaft El. Owing to the inclination of the stem 89 of the thread Vfinger5 the lower forked end 81 of the finger, as it is moved from left toright to assist in laying the thread in the needle hook, swingsdownwardly and slightly rearwardly about the stern. During this movementof the thread finger the forked end of the finger engages the threadextending from the' work to the looper 1 and carries the thread behindthe needle, they looper 1 then acting to carry the thread in front ofthe needle to lay the thread in the hook of the latter. The downwardswinging movement of the thread finger causes the lower end of thefinger to dip down between the channel lips at each side of the shoewhen sewing round the toe and thus enables the thread finger to clearthe lips as it moves into engagement with the thread and as it carriesthe thread behind the pointed end of the needle.

The slight rearward movement of the lower end of the thread finger 5prevents the finger from engaging the usual channel guide 3 of themachine as the lower end of the finger moves towards the right. Thelower end of the thread finger 5, as it swings from left to right, movesin a direction more or less parallel to the channel lip through whichthe seam is being formed and inside the channel lip, i. e. on that sideof the lip which lies nearer the middle of the insole. This direction ofmovement of the lower end of the thread linger prevents the threadfinger from engaging the channel lip during its movement and since thetension exerted by the thread finger on the thread extending from thelast formed needle hole to the looper 1 is in a direction more or lessparallel to the channel lip, there is little, if any, tendency for thechannel lip to be forced towards the edge of the insole by the pull onthe thread.

The looper 1 when laying the thread in the hook of the needle is movedfrom a position at the left hand side of the needle and somewhatrearwardly of the point of the needle when the latter is fully advancedthrough the work, in a bent path extending fromv a position at the lefthand side and rearward of the needle forwardly and towards the right sothat the looper passes from its position at the left hand side andsomewhat rearwardly of the needle in front of and towards the right ofthe needle and during this movement of the looper, the looper inconjunction with the thread nger lays the thread around the shank of theneedle so that the hook of the needle may receive the thread. The loopercarries a length of thread in front of the needle towards the right andthe thread finger carries a length of thread behind the needle towardsthe right, thus forming a loop of thread which passes round the lefthand side of the needle, and is engaged by the hook of the needle as theneedle moves back through the work. As the looper 1 moves in passing thethread around the'needle it, therefore, moves first forwardly and thentowards the right across the front of the needle and, later returnsalong the same path without having completely passed around the needle.

The lower thread guiding end of the looper 1 is formed on a slide ||3(see Fig. 6) mounted in a guideway H5 provided at the forward side ofthe lower end of a looper lever ||1, corresponding to the looper lever22 of the Patent No. 1,108,560. The guideway in the arm extends upwardlyand forwardly at an angle of about 45 degrees 'tothe Wardly extendingarm horizontal so that the looper can move in the same direction as thepoint of the needle while laying the thread in the needle hook. At theforward side of the slide |I3 is a ball-ended stud H9 to which ispivotally connected a link I2I which in turn is pivotally connected to astud |23 secured in the machine frame. The looper lever H1 is actuatedforwardly and rearwardly and left and right to lay the thread in theneedle hook in the same manner as in the patent referred to, throughsuitable connections to the cam followers |25 and |21 cooperating with acam on the sewing shaft 6I. As the lever I|1 is moved forwardly, theforward swinging movement of the link I2I about its stationary pivot |23causes the slide I I3 on which the looper is formed to move downwardlyon the looper lever, and as the lower end of the looper lever swingstowards the right in front of the needle, the swinging movement of thelower end of i the link IZ'I also causes downward movement of the slideII3 on the lever II?. The arrangement is such that as the looper 1 movesforwardly and toward the right it also moves somewhat downwardly, thisdownward movement being in addil tion to that given the looper by reasonof the slight downward movement of the looper lever I|1 and itsactuating connections.

Means is also provided in the present machine for placing a tension onthe welt during the formation of each stitch to prevent the welt frombeing drawn lengthwise relatively to the shoe by the thread during thesetting of the stitches. This means includes a presser member I3 pivotedon the welt guide 9 (Figs. l, 3 and 4), having a for- I 3| arranged tobear against the upper face of the welt and to press the welt againstthe lower face of the welt guide 9. The presser member I3 is pivoted tothe welt guide on a horizontal pivot |33 extending laterally of themachine behind the welt-guiding portion of the welt guide. The pressermember I3 has a rearwardly and somewhat downwardly extending arm |35 tothe rear end of which there .is connected one end of a tension spring|31 the other end of which is connected to a plate |39 secured on themachine frame. The spring |31 causes the arm |3I of the presser memberI3 to press against the weltl The rearwardly extending arm |35 of thepresser member I3 has pivoted to ,it near its rear end on a horizontalpivot |4I extending laterally of the machine a pawl |43. The pawl |43has an upwardly extending arm which has formed on its upper end a tootharranged to engage one of a series of ratchet teeth |45 formed one abovethe other on the plate |39. The pawl. |43 has a rearwardly extending arm|41 to which is connected one end of a tension spring |49, the other endof which is connected to the plate |39 and the spring |49 normallyhol-ds the pawl in engagement with one of the ratchet teeth |45. Therearwardly extending arm |41 of the pawl is, during each sewing cycle,engaged by a finger I5I (Fig` l) secured or formed on the usual needleactuating cam lever, part of which is shown at |53, to cause the toothedend of the pawl to be withdrawn from the ratchet teeth |45. When, duringthe operation of the machine, the welt guide 9 is swung upwardly andrearwardly away from the work while the work is being fed, the pivot |33of the presser member moves with it but since the pawl |43 is at thistime in engagement with one of the ratchet teeth |45 the rear arm |35 ofthe presser member is prevented from moving upwardly with the welt guideand the front arm I3I of the presser member is moved upwardly away fromthe welt so as to release the welt during the feeding of the work. Whenthe welt guide 9 is moved downwardly and forwardly into engagement withthe work at the conclusion of the work feed, the rear arm |35 of thepresser member I3 is held inoperative by the pawl |43 which is held inengagement by its spring I 49 with the ratchet teeth |45 so that thefront arm #3| of the presser member is moved towards the Welt.

When the needle is passing forwardly through the work and is approachingthe end of its forward movement, the pawl |43 is withdrawn from theratchet teeth |45 by the aforesaid nger I5I (Fig. l) on the needleactuating cam lever |53 and the presser member is thus renderedoperative The manner in which the various instrumentalities of thepresent illustrative embodiment cooperate in a machine cycle will now bedescribed with reference to Figures 2 and 9 to 14 of the drawings.

In Figure 2 the movements of the needle are indicated at A, the in andout movements of the feed point at B, the feeding movements of the feedpoint at B, the movements of the channel guide at C, the movements ofthe thread finger at D, the movements of the looper from lel't to rightat E, the movements of the looper forwardly and rearwardly at E', themovements of the take-up at F, the movements of the welt guide at G, themovements of the thread deilector forwardly and rearwardly at H, and themovements of the thread deflector from left to right at H.

In the stopped position of the machine shown in Figures 1 and 3 to '7inclusive, the needle I occupies substantially its rearmost andretracted position, a needle guide |51 of usual form occupies itsrearmost position along the shank of the needle, the feed point 2 isprojecting into the work and has moved about half way towards the leftalong a feeding movement, the channel guide 3 will be pressing firmlyagainst the work and will have moved along the feed line with the feedpoint. The thread finger 5 which cooperates with the looper 1 to lay thethread around the needle at that time occupies its left hand positionout of engagement with the thread extending from the work to the looperand the looper occupies its most rearward and leftward position at theleft hand side of the needle. The thread take-up device occupies alowered position in which it lies relatively close to the work. The weltguide 9, which at a chosen time in the machine cycle is locked againstmovement, is unlocked in the stopped position of the machine andoccupies a rearward and upward position. The thread deflector II, whenthe machine is in the stopped position, occupies a position in which ithas moved towards the left almost as far as it can across the plane ofthe needle in deflecting and exerting a tension on the last needle loopand occupies almost the highest position it reaches in applying tensionon the loop. The needle commences to advance towards the work when themain shaft of the machine has rotated through about 50 degrees from itsstopped position and the thread nger, looper, take-up, and threaddelector all remain substantially stationary during this portion of thecycle, the welt guide and the thread deflector advancing somewhat whenthe mainshaft has rotated through some 30 degrees to 40 degrees. Theadvancing movement of the needle continues until the main shaft hasrotated through about 100 degrees from its stopped position and in theinterval which occurs while the main shaft is rotating through thisfurther 50 degrees, the thread nger 5, looper 1 and welt guide 9 stillremains stationary while the take-up rises to impart a stitch settingtension to the previous stitch. When the main shaft has rotated throughabout 65 degrees, at which time the needle will only have advancedslightly from its rearward position, the thread deflector Il comu mencesto swing downwardly and rearwardly out of contact with the needle loopof the last stitch `while remaining at the left hand extremity of itsmovement, the deflector having its right hand end bent forwardly andupwardly however to maintain the loop in its deflected positionsubstantially until the deflector is approaching its extreme rearwardand downward position, i. e., until the main shaft has rotated throughsome 100 degrees. By the time the main shaft has rotated through thisangle the needle will have commenced to pierce the work and the factthat the deflector retains its engagement with the thread loop untilthis time ensures that the loop of thread will be supported againstfalling off the needle shank as the needle advances to pierce the work.The deilector, having moved out of engagement with the thread by thetime the main shaft has rotated through about 120 degrees, commences tomove idly across towards the right, below the needle, it actuallycontinuing this movement until the shaft has rotated through about 190degrees.

The needle actually reaches its full advanced position indicated inFigure 9 with its hooked end projecting through the work when the mainshaft has rotated some 110 degrees and dwells in that position until themain shaft has rotated through some 200 degrees. The take-up completesthe setting of the previous stitch when the main shaft has rotated some130 degrees. About the same time as the take-up completes the setting ofthe stitch, the thread finger 5 commences to move across towards theright, more or less parallel to the direction of work feed, between theneedle and the inner face of the insole lip. The thread finger actuallycomes into engagement with the thread when the main shaft has rotatedthrough about 140 degrees. The thread finger concludes its movementtowards the right in the path indicated at X in Figure 9, having urged`the thread behind and against the left hand side of the needle, whenthe main shaft has rotated through some 180 degrees and at approximatelythe same time the ,looper starts to move towards the right from aposition in which it then lies in front of and slightly to the left ofthe needle. The thread finger dwells in its right hand position untilthe main shaft has rotated through some 220 degrees and during the timeit dwells in that position, the looper continues its movement towardsthe right in the path indicated at Y in Figure 6 and wraps the threadaround the forward side of the needle so that when the latter retires,its barb Will engage the thread to draw a loop rearwardly through thework. When the needle retires to its rearward position, which it doeswhile the main shaft is rotating from about 200 degrees to 300 degrees,the thread finger moves back towards the left (it actually moving thuswhile the main shaft rotates from 220 degrees to 250 degrees) and duringrotation of the main shaft from about 240 degrees to 330 degrees thelooper returns to its original left and rearward position along the samepath as it followed in laying the thread around the front of the needle.The fact that the thread finger and looper cooperate to lay the threadaround the needle shank in the manner indicated and that the looper doesnot completely encircle the needle shank in laying the thread againstthe latter results in the advantage that the two limbs of the threadloop taken back through the work by the needle will not be caused tocross over each other when the loop is later pulled down on to the workby the takeup, but will lie in a side by side elevation.

The fact that the thread finger 5 moves a constant distance in adirection more or less parallel to, and opposite to the direction inwhich the work is fed through the machine as it assists the looper tolay the thread around the needle gives the advantage that the length ofthread extending from the last needle hole to the thread nger, when thelatter is at the right hand end of its movement, aroundv the needleshank and then to the looper, will be dependent on the distance towardsthe left from the thread nger which the last needle hole occupies and,since the position of the last needle hole will be determined by thedistance the work was fed by the last operative movement of the feedpoint and channel guide, the result is achieved that the lengths ofthread presented to the needle for drawing back through the work will bedependent upon and proportional to the length of work feed. Therefore,since less thread will be paid out to the needle for the for-n mation ofthe shorter stitches usually sewn around the toe of a shoe, the stitchesformed around the toe will be more likely to be set as firmly againstthe work as the stitches sewn along the sides than would be the case ifthe amounts of thread paid off to the needle by the thread finger andlooper were substantially constant irrespective of the distance the workis fed between successive stitches.

It will be understood that as the needle retires to draw the loop ofthread through the work, the take-up descends at an appropriate speed topay off sufficient thread to the needle to provide for the backwardmovement of the needle loop.

Slightly before the needle commences to retire from its most forwardposition to draw the needle loop back through the work (i. e., when themain shaft has rotated through some 190 degrees) the thread deector,which is then idle in a lowered and rearward position at the right handend of its travel, commences to swing forwardly and upwardly, towardsthe position indicated in Figure 10 but slightly to the right of thatposition, ready to engage the needle loop, the forwardly and upwardlybent right hand end of the defiector then lying close by the right handside of the needle shank. The deector reaches an appropriate forward andraised position, still more or less at the right hand extremity of itsmovement, when the main shaft has rotated through some 250 degrees andby this time the point of the retiring `needle will have moved justsuiciently reardegrees,by which time the needle will have reached itsfully retracted position, indicated in Figure l1, after which itimmediately starts to advance slowly once more, the deflector will havemoved sufficiently far over towards the left to produce an appreciablebowing or deflection in the needle loop and after this time thedeflector both continues to move towards the left, during the time thefeeding of the work takes place, and is moved upwardly, towards theposition indicated in Figure 13, and forwardly slightly so as to exertan upward and forward tension on the loop as the needle moves towardsthe work again to prevent the loop from falling downwardly off theneedle. The combined movements of the deflector towards the left andupwardly and forwardly continue until the end of the cycle, thedeflector being given a slight upward and rearward sliding movement, dueto its connection with the welt guide, as the welt guide movesbackwardly which it does while the main shaft is rotated from about 310degrees to the end of the cycle. At the commencement of the next cyclethe deflector is moved a little further towards the left and is raised alittle further while still in engagementwith the needle loop andcontinues to deflect the loop and to exert an upward tension on it untilthe needle has advanced slightly towards the work as indicated in Figure12. The deector then commences to swing downwardly and rearwardly whilestill however engaging the loop by means of its bent end.

The deflector actually retains the thread loop in its deflectedcondition until the needle once more commences to pierce the work, asindicated in Figure 13, after which it immediately retires out ofengagement with the thread. When the setting of the stitch is beingcompleted by the take-up, the deflector will no longer be engaging theloop and the needle will have penetrated, completely through the work,as indicated in Figure 14. The tension exerted on the thread passingthrough the looper and the work and around the needle by the take-upwill, therefore, tighten the thread loop around the needle shank andwill consequently pull the looper end of the previous stitch loopthrough which the needle passes along the surface of the work. As thedeector acts in the manner described to bow the needle loop, it exerts atension on that limb of the previous loop which passes through the nextto last needle hole and which extends upwardly through the next to lastneedle hole and around the needle so that it assists the take-up insetting the stitch. The fact that the deflector exerts a tension on thislimb causes the looped end of the previous loop to be pulled somewhattowards the left, i. e., towards the next to last needle hole. Thereforewhen the deflector retires from engagement with the thread, theinterengaging portions of the two loops will remain on the surface ofthe work at a position between the last needle hole and the previousneedle hole, as indicated in Figure 14. When, therefore, the take-upagain exerts its stitch setting tension on the thread, the tension actsto draw the interengaging portions of the two loops along the surface ofthe work towards the needle about which the last loop passes, and causesthe last loop to slide through the previous loop. Thus by the shorteningof the loop passing around the needle, the previous loop is drawntowards the needle until it lies more or less in line with the lastneedle hole and that portion of the insole lip lying between the lastneedle hole and the next to last needle hole is compressed lengthwisethereof by reason of the position which the interengaging portions ofthe two loops occupy on the surface of the work when the stitch settingtension is applied to the thread. Owing to the fact that the deflectorprogressively deflects the needle loop while the needle is actuallymoving rearwardly it is able to pull one limb of the previous loopthrough the work and to deect the needle loop more easily and with lesspossibility of causing straining or chai-lng of the thread than would bethe case if the deflector were only caused to act on the thread while itis stationary and under appreciable tension. The channel guide and feedpoint, then in engagement with the work, commence to move towards theleft to feed the shoe through the machine a stitch length when the mainshaft has rotated through substantially 320 degrees, as indicated inFigure 1l, and their feeding movement continues substantially until themain shaft has rotated through 50 degrees in the next cycle. While thework is being fed, the needle is out of the work moving slowly forwardfrom its most rearward position, the looper remains practicallystationary in its rearward position to the left of the needle, thethread finger also is stationary to the left of the needle, the weltguide 9 is moved upwardly and rearwardly out of engagement with the workto facilitate the feed of the latter, it actually moving downwardly andforwardly again to rest on the work just after the work feed hasconcluded, and the thread defiector l I moves towards the left andupwardly and rearwardly somewhat so as to maintain the thread loop inits deflected or bowed condition during the work feed, thus exertingsome upward and rearward lifting action on the loop. The feed point digsinto the work substantially when the main shaft has rotated through some260 degrees and remains in its work penetrating position until the mainshaft has rotated through 60 degrees in the next cycle of the machine.By reason of this fact the feed point will remain in the work throughoutthe whole of the time the deflector is acting to deflect the threadtowards the left and will, therefore, afford effective support to thework against being moved through the machine by the deflector.

The welt presser member i3 which acts to press the welt against thelower portion of the welt guide 9 is, by reason of its mounting on thewelt guide and its connection at its rear end to the pawl |43 lifted soas to release its pressure on the welt when the welt guide is movedrearwardly so that the welt may easily move through the guide when theshoe is being fed. The presser is lowered against the welt when the weltguide is moved forwardly at the conclusion of feed. If the guide shouldnot then engage the welt by reason of being stopped by the work beforeit reaches its original position, the projection ISS acts as the needleis approaching the forward extremity of its advancing movement torelease the pawl from the ratchet teeth and allow the presser to swingagainst the welt. By the provision of the welt presser I3 which gripsthe welt against the guide during the formation and setting of eachstitch, any tendency for the thread to draw the welt through the weltguide, either during the formation of a stitch or during the settingthereof, will be resisted and therefore there will be little likelihoodthat a strip of welt which, in its loose state, is long enough to extendaround a shoe substantially from the heel breast line at one side of thewaist to the othei` will be contracted o1' puckered to such an extentthat it is no longer able to reach entirely around the shoe.

The relatively simple mechanisms above described for actuating thethread defiector, thread finger and looper are such as will readily lendthemselves to incorporation in a machine designed to run at a relativelyhigh speed and will not be likely to develop excessive wear orto giverise to undue vibration when operated at high speed.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and amachine embodying the several features having been specificallydescribed, what is claimed is:

l. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop delector, and means for actuating the deflector beforethe needle has reached the end of its loop drawing stroke to deflectboth sides of the loop carried by the needle between the needle and thepreviously formed loop in the direction of work feed'.

2. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawAa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deflector, and means for actuating the deflector inthe direction of work feed to deflect the loop carried by the needlebetween the needle and the previously formed loop and to hold the loopdeiiected until the needle engages the work during the formation of anew stitch.

3. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deector, and means for actuating the deflector in arectangular path, along one portion of which the thread carried by theneedle between the needle and-the previously formed loop is engaged bythe delector, and along another portion of which the `thread isdisengaged from the delector.

4. A chainstitch inseam. shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deflector arranged to be actuated in a rectangularpath, along one portion of which the thread carried by the needlebetween the needle and the previously formed loop is engaged by thedelector and along another portion of which the thread is disengagedfrom the deflector, and means for actuating the deflector to hold thethread until the needle has substantially reached the work in itsadvancing stroke.

5. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deflector, means for actuating the deilector todeiiect both sides of the loop carried by the needle between the needleand the previously formed loop, and parallel motion linkage on which thedeector is movable along the direction of work feed during deilection ofthe needle loop.

6. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop o-f thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deflector, means for actuating the deflector in thedirection of work feed to deflect both sides of the loop carried by theneedle between the needle and the previously formed loop, and means foractuating the deflector towards and away from the seam to engage anddisengage the needle loop.

7. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previouslyformed loop ofthread, a loop deector, means for actuating the deilector to deflectboth sides of the loop carried by the needle between the needle and thepreviously formed loop, parallel motion linkage on which the deiiectoris movable along the direction of Work feed during deflection of theneedle loop, and means for moving the parallel motion linkage bodily toactuate the deilector towards and away from engagement with the needleloop.

8. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a take-up, a loop deflector, and means for actuating thedeiiector to deflect both sides of the loop carrieclby the needlebetween the needle and the previously formed loop and while thread isbeing given up by the take-up.

9. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop deflector, and means for actuating the deflector todeflect both sides of the loop carried by the needle between the needleand the previously formed loop, said means beginning its operativemovement before the needle has reached the end of its loop having, incombination, stitch forming mechanism including a curved hook needleoperating to` draw a loop of thread through the work and through apreviously formed loop of thread, and a loop deector arranged whenactuated to deect both sides of the loop carried by the needle betweenthe needle and the work, and means for actuating the needle to drawthread from the previously formed loop while the deector is acting todeflect the last formed loop.

11. A chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming mechanism including a 'curved hook needle operating todraw a loop of thread through the work and through a previously formedloop of thread, a loop deflector and means for actuating the deector inthe direction of work feed to deflect both sides of the loop between theneedle and the previously formed loop during the loop drawing stroke ofthe needle and for actuating the deflector away from the seam during thenext succeeding advancing stroke of the needle.

12. A chainstitch inseam sewing machine for forming an inseam Within thechannel of an insole having, in combination, stitch forming devicesincluding a curved hook needle operating to draw a loop of threadthrough the work and through a previously formed loop of thread, and athread finger acting in a direction opposite to that in which the Workis fed to measure thread Cil from the needle loop and to dip into thechannel of the insole in measuring the thread.

13. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a loop defiector, means for actuating the deector in thedirection of work feed to deect the loop carried by the needle betweenthe needle and the previously formed loop, and a thread linger acting ina direction opposite to the direction of feed to measure thread for theneedle loop.

14. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a welt guide movable towards and from the work, a loopdeflector, and means for actuating the deflector including a connectionoperatively connected to the Welt guide.

l5. A chanstitch inseam-shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a welt guide movable towards and from the work, a loopdeflector arranged to deflect the thread carried by the needle betweenthe needle and the work in the direction of work feed, and means on thewelt guide for gripping and releasing the welt during each sewing cycle.

16. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through .a previously formed loopof thread, a welt guide movable towards and from the work, a loopdeflector arranged to deflect the thread carried by the needle betweenthe needle and the work in the direction of work feed, and means foractuating the welt guide to grip the welt while a stitch is being setand to release the welt during work feed.

17. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a welt guide movable towards and from the work, a pressermember, yielding means for actuating the presser member to grip thewelt, and a pawl actuated by movement of the welt guide away from thework to release the presser member from the welt.

18. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, mechanismoperating to cause the needle to draw a loop of thread through the workand through a previously formed loop of thread, a welt guide movabletowards and from the work, a presser member for gripping the welt toprevent its movement through the welt guide, yielding means foractuating the presser member to grip the welt, a pawl for holding thepresser member from gripping relation with the welt, and means includingthe needle actuating mechanism for moving the pawl into inoperativeposition to permit the presser member again to grip the welt.

19. A chanstitch inseam shoe sewing machine having, in combination,stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle operating to drawa loop of thread through the Work and through a previously formed loopof thread, a looper, mechanism for actuating the looper to lay thethread in the needle hook, a slide on which the looper is mounted, andmeans for actuating the slide in the direction of movement of the pointof the needle as the thread is laid in the needle hook comprising a linkpivotally connected at one end to the looper and at the other end to astationary part of the machine.

20. A chanstitch sewing machine having, in combination, a hooked needleoperating to draw a loop of thread through the work and through apreviously formed loop of thread, a thread deflector arranged todisplace, along the surface of the work, those portions of the needleloop and the previous loop which are then in engagement with each other,a stitch setting device for drawing the inter-engaging loop portionsalong the surface of the work towards their original positions duringthe setting of a stitch, and a thread nger acting to draw off, forsuccessive stitches,

amounts of thread proportionate to the extent of work feed which takesplace between said stitches.

JOSEPH GOULDBOURN. THOMAS AUBREY KESTELL.

